There are a ton of skincare acids on the market nowadays. For any beginner, the word ‘acid’ alone feels intimidating. I don’t know about you, but I always pictured those vats of acid from an action movie. The kind that turned a villain into an instant skeleton. Yikes.
Of course, when it comes to your skincare, these acids are safe and friendly. But taking your skin type into consideration is most important when trying to find the right acid for you. To figure out which acid works best for your skin, you have to know the most common acids in skincare, what they are, and what they can do for you.
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Skincare Acids Explained
Chemistry, Acids, and Skincare
To explain acids, we have to talk about a little bit of chemistry for a second. More than likely, you’ve heard of the pH scale (pH means power/potential of hydrogen). A 7 on the pH is neutral. Anything below that number is acidic and anything above it is alkaline.
For context, lemon juice is a 2 on the pH scale making it highly acidic. Baking soda falls at a 9. Bleach is a 12.9.
Believe it or not, our skin is naturally acidic with that number falling between 4.7 – 5.75. And our skin has to be acidic. This is how it protects itself from bacteria in the outside world. Pretty neat, right?
Of course, your pH can be compromised just by moving through your day-to-day life. You encounter bacteria and environmental factors just from going outside. It’s natural.
How Do I Know When My pH is Off?
You know your skin’s pH is off when you experience skin troubles. Everything from dryness, to acne, to psoriasis. If your skin becomes alkaline you may experience dryness, sensitivity, redness, and irritation. Your skin’s natural barrier may not hold moisture as well as it could which leads to premature aging.
If your skin is too acidic, it’s more likely to experience inflammatory-related conditions like acne.
pH is a huge focus when it comes to the Korean ten step routine. But the goal of any good skincare routine is to bring your skin into balance.
What Are Acids in Skincare?
When it comes to acids, there are two major groups to consider: AHAs and BHAs.
They both work to loosen the upper layers of skin to encourage shedding. This can be visible to the naked eye depending on the strength of acid. But this isn’t always the case.
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are used for exfoliating the outer layer of skin. There are numerous benefits from exfoliation. It can even your skin tone, stimulate collagen production and leave skin brighter.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are typically used to treat acne. They penetrate the skin deeply into clogged pores. The bind to sebum and take the extra oil with it when the dead skin cells shed.
A List of Skincare Acids
Commons AHAs
AHAs are water-soluble can be derived from a number of ingredients. When it comes to usage, always be sure to read the labels. If you have a more sensitive skin type, do a patch test before applying anything to your face.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane. It has small molecules and penetrates the deepest. Be careful with this one because it’s also the most likely to cause irritation.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is derived from milk products. This one can be gentle for those with sensitive skin. It brightens, exfoliates and hydrates without the harshness that glycolic acid can have on these types.
Fruit Acid
Usually in the form of citric or malic acid. Citrus is derived from citrus (lemons, limes, or grapefruit) where malic is from apples. It’s the most gentle form of acid and can be used in combination with glycolic or lactic acid to boost effectiveness. It may also be friendly to more sensitive types. (But seriously. Do a patch test first.)
Common BHAs
This one is very easy to remember! There are multiple types of BHAs, but there is one that you will run into the most. BHAs are oil-soluble and meant for those that are oily prone to acne. If you’re an oily skin type, you’re more than likely familiar with it already.
Salicylic Acid
This acid works to control oil production. While this acid does exfoliate the surface of the skin, it works so well because it penetrates skin deeply. Not only does it break down build up. It also balances oil, cleans clogged pores and helps reduce inflammation caused by breakouts.
What About Hyaluronic Acid?
Although it’s labeled as an acid, it’s actually a humectant. It’s good for any skin type and can help your skin hold on to nearly a thousand times its weight in water. If you’re looking for a youthful, dewy appearance, it’s always worth having on hand. Especially if you’re an aging or dry skin type. Or if you live in a drier climate.
Any Recommendations?
Always! One of the brands that I recommend to people the most is The Ordinary. AHAs and BHAs can appear in any product. But to start a gentle introduction of a new ingredient, I highly recommend them. They’re cost-efficient and beginner-friendly. And they make all-around wonderful products.