The first time I heard that the Korean skincare routine had ten steps I had two immediate thoughts. One, that it was going to be expensive. And two, there was no way I’m going to remember all those steps! Ten steps sounded super overwhelming!
And if you’re anything like I was, that’s why you’re here.
Deep breath, friend. I’m here to assure you, it’s not expensive. It’s not time-consuming. And not only will you get the hang of the ten steps – you’ll love it! You may never go back.
I’m a little biased, but it’s changed my life and I hope you take something from it too.
Even if you don’t use all ten steps in your life, you’ll have a better understanding of most products on the market today.
Let’s break it down so that it doesn’t feel like an impossible mountain. You too will become a Korean skincare expert. Or in the very least, way more knowledgeable for when you visit skin care aisles in the future.
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means that, at zero cost to you, I will earn an affiliate commission if you click through the link and finalize a purchase.
The 4 Korean Skincare Steps You Wash Off
Double Cleansing
In my opinion, the double cleanse is the most important of the Korean skincare steps to follow. If you do nothing else, add the double cleanse to your routine.
Yes, you are washing your face twice. However, you’re using an oil-based cleanser and then a water-based one.
Oil and water don’t mix. If you add oil to water, the oil sits on top. As you move throughout your day, you may wear make-up, get sweaty, or just gather pollutants on your skin in general.
A water-based cleanser on its own isn’t going to get rid of all the residue you’ve gathered.
The most visible proof of this is taking off your make-up. You can’t take it off with cleanser alone. You usually have to use make-up wipes or make-up removers before cleaning your face.
An oil cleanser will take off everything because it’s formulated to mix with the oil on your face, emulsify, and then rinse away. Apply it and watch the make-up melt off your face with ease. No more abrasive wipes necessary.
And it does this without stripping the natural oils in your skin. That way, you won’t feel tight and dry afterward.
Then you wash your face as usual with a cleanser that it perfect for your skin type.
Exfoliation
While this is one of the steps, keep in mind that you don’t have to scrub your face every day.
Exfoliating in general is great because it encourages dead skin cells to fall away which leads to brighter skin.
However, over-exfoliating with a scrub is abrasive on facial skin which is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your body. It can cause redness, and irritation, and make skin look worse in the long run. It can even cause inflammation which leads to acne and breakouts.
When choosing an exfoliator, make sure to pick something gentle. Avoid nut shells or apricot kernels because they can cause havoc on your skin! And while the skin industry has gotten better, avoid anything with micro beads. They’re made of plastic which is terrible for the environment.
I’m a huge fan of Skinfood’s Strawberry Sugar Mask. It smells like strawberries and it’s made with all-natural ingredients. I recommend using a exfoliator once a week. Or even biweekly! But take it easy and scrub in small circles when you use it.
Masks
Similar to exfoliation, you only have to use masks once a week. They give your skin the boost it needs throughout the week. Whether it’s because your skin needs hydration, or oil control, they’re handy to have.
I usually keep two or three masks in rotation so they last a long time because I don’t use them often.
Besides the exfoliation mask, I currently have Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask for when I’m too oily or have a breakout.
But for the drier months, I like Frank Body Glow Mask. This is an awesome mask if you tend to have dry skin.
And The 6 Korean Skincare Steps You Layer
Toner
Once you’ve cleaned your face, it’s time for your toner.
Toning your skin isn’t too foreign if you have any kind of skincare routine. You tone your skin to get rid of any lingering impurities that your double cleanse didn’t. And it’s not just for that. Your toner can also target any skin concerns you have.
For me, hyperpigmentation is my biggest concern. I use Pixi’s Glow Tonic which has a very very light acid to encourage skin exfoliation.
But for you, maybe you’re worried about acne or dry skin. You can find moisturizing toners or even toners to clear your pores. If you’re looking for recommendations, I have a whole list here.
Essence, Serums, & Ampoules
Essence is a lovely product that adds extra hydration to the skin. If you’re going for the glass skin look or just need a hydration boost, it’s a wonderful addition. Add it before you add your serum because of its lighter weight consistency.
Using a serum is like using a supercharged, concentrated treatment for whatever is ailing you! If you’re like me and your concern is hyperpigmentation, there’s a serum for that. Trying to make pores tighter? Need something brightening? Anti-aging? Moisturizing?
Yes, there is a serum for that.
Serums can range vastly in price. The most I’ve paid for serum was in the $70 range. But I’ve also paid a lot less. And of course, some serums can go well into the $100+ range.
One company I would recommend for any beginner is The Ordinary. They’re great about outlining how each of their serums is used.
You can use as many serums as you want, but make sure the ingredients don’t negatively interact with each other.
An ampoule is a more intense version of a serum. Where you can use serums every day, you don’t have to use an ampoule as often. If anything, use it once a week.
Lotions
This is one of the Korean skincare steps that can be just a little confusing. It’s worth noting here that if you see any Korean products labeled ‘lotion’, it’s not like the lotion you use for your body. This isn’t your final moisturizing step.
Asian-styled lotions are somewhere between a toner and a serum. They’re a liquid that’s used to add extra moisture to your skin. It’s an addition to everything else you’re doing.
I’m telling you this because I learned the hard way. Imagine my surprise thinking I bought a lightweight lotion for my daytime routine only to be met with a bottle of liquid. So read your labels!
I find this step particularly useful when cold weather comes around. But as I usually say, feel it out! If you’re following all ten steps with diligence, go for it. But over the years, I’ve found I only need this seasonally.
Sheet Masks
Of all the Korean skincare steps, I love this one the most. It brings out my playful side and makes me feel like a kid again. Sheet masks come in all shapes and sizes. Some of them have cartoon characters on them or animal faces.
They’re a lot of fun when you’re having a self-care day with friends or want some really interesting selfies.
And even if it’s a plain, white mask, it’s fun to startle people by wearing one. (Just me?)
When you open a sheet mask, you’ll find the liquid that it’s soaking in is serum. The types of serums a sheet mask can contain are endless. Seriously. Brightening. Aging. Redness. Dryness. You name it, there’s probably a mask for that.
If you’re super bougie, you can do this step daily. Or sometimes it’s just nice to treat your skin. Like if you’re on vacation. Or if you’ve had a hard week. It’s a spa experience without the spa pricing.
Eye Cream
While eye cream isn’t specific to the Korean skincare steps, it’s an extremely important one no matter what your routine looks like. I always think back to this time when I was casually browsing Sephora in my early 20s. An associate who was maybe in her 50s told me the sooner that I used eye cream, the better.
It sounded like she was trying to get me to buy more. But honestly, now that I’m in my 30s, I see why she advised this. Under eye skin is extremely delicate.
I don’t know about you, but I spent way too much time in college taking off eye make up with make up wipes that felt too abrasive. Not to mention, a lot of us rub our eyes even though we shouldn’t.
It’s the first part of my body where I started to notice my age. Not drastically by any means. But I do.
Eye creams can err be the pricey side compared to the other steps. That’s why Benton Fermentation Eye Cream has been a God send. The price is right and the results blew me away on the first application. And don’t let the name fool you. It doesn’t smell. (I get that question a lot!)
So moral of the story? Get a good eye cream! There’s so many on the market that target dark circles and fine lines that you’re sure to find what’s best for you.
Day Cream! Night Cream! Sunscreen!
Moisturizing your skin is what keeps you looking young. Your moisturizer is sealing in everything you’ve put on. The cherry on top of the skincare sundae!
You’ll need a day cream and a night cream. Yes, they’re different. Yes, they’re important.
The big difference between these is that your day cream will be lightweight and your night cream will be heavier.
The reason for this is that your body goes into repair mode as you sleep. You’ll want something that will take longer to absorb as you sleep so you’ll stay moisturized longer that way.
If it’s nighttime, then you are done!
If it’s daytime, the only thing you left to add is sunscreen.
And yes, you need sunscreen. The sun ages you. It doesn’t matter what your skin tone is, you need a minimum of 30. You have a lot of options here. Lots of make-up and primer contain SPF now. Just make sure that it’s 30 minimum.
Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen is my go-to. It has an SPF of 40, it contains a primer, AND it doesn’t leave any white streaks so it’s friendly to all skin tones.
If you want a digestible version of the above, I made an amazing chart to break down the steps.
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And of course, if you have any questions about skincare, reach out.
Sources:
What Is a Skin Essence, and Do You Really Need One?